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Topic: Need help an advice on 92 accord

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Denton TX
    Posts
    4

    Default Need help an advice on 92 accord

    well i have an entirely stock 1992 honda accord LX. man i wanted an EX but this was tha cheapest.Well i wanna go fast and look good tryin. what should i do. i dont really wanna do an engine swap either.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    802

    Default

    turbo, if you don't wanna swap, and as for looking good, just dont put any fugly bodykits on it
    Originally Posted by Big Boto
    "be pateint grass hopper and the planets and moons will align to group together a force greater than sex"
    street races: since 5spd swap
    win:corolla S,magnum (from a roll), 4th gen accord, 240 sx, rodeo, camery, neon, jetta, 1st gen eclipse, saturn, 6th gen accord, ram 1500, corolla,
    loss:magnum (from a stop) cobalt (due to speed limiter), ss cobalt

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    1,001

    Default

    if you dont wanna swap it out, and go fast, and if you mean fast the way i mean fast you want to be FAST then, H23 crank and rods and H22 pistons, port and polish the head, arp bolts and studs for everything, cam (probably gonna have to be a regrind) cam gear, valves, springs, retainers, DH-Racing TB and port match intake manifold, lightened flywheel weather its stock or aftermarket, stg2 clutch (all asuming your manual if your auto then forget about going fast, at least for too long) T3/To4e ballbearing turbo you decided the company of the turbo, a GREAT tune (i recomend neptune) and if thats not fast enough get a 150-175 dryshot. did i miss anything, oh and a lip kit, NO BODY KIT, i WILL be forced to kill you if you put a body kit on your car, have a nice day
    95 accord 4 door:
    JDM F22b
    stock ported head
    ARP studs
    K&N cold air intake
    DHRacing 69mm TB
    DHRacing stock ported intake
    Mugen header
    custom test pipe
    Apexi WS2 catback
    Apexi safcII
    TIEN coilovers
    5 Zigen FN01R-C
    Kumho AST
    Forbidden short shifter
    Bride shift boot
    *NEW*92 EG hatch project*
    B16a 5spd LSD (for now)
    LS/Vtec turbo
    300-500whp with 3stg boost controller
    parts -- its a secret

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Denton TX
    Posts
    4

    Default

    ok ok i love ur idea's so what bout interior. Seats, guages, neon? whats to much?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    1,001

    Default

    you could do seats, steering wheel, again, if you paint the plastic in the car i will be forced to kill you, if you do turbo or nitrous your gonna want gauges but dont do the A piller everyone does that, you figure something out, neon if you do that the only neon that i really think looks good or alright is under the dash. good luck
    95 accord 4 door:
    JDM F22b
    stock ported head
    ARP studs
    K&N cold air intake
    DHRacing 69mm TB
    DHRacing stock ported intake
    Mugen header
    custom test pipe
    Apexi WS2 catback
    Apexi safcII
    TIEN coilovers
    5 Zigen FN01R-C
    Kumho AST
    Forbidden short shifter
    Bride shift boot
    *NEW*92 EG hatch project*
    B16a 5spd LSD (for now)
    LS/Vtec turbo
    300-500whp with 3stg boost controller
    parts -- its a secret

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 95_acc0rd
    if you dont wanna swap it out, and go fast, and if you mean fast the way i mean fast you want to be FAST then, H23 crank and rods and H22 pistons, port and polish the head, arp bolts and studs for everything, cam (probably gonna have to be a regrind) cam gear, valves, springs, retainers, DH-Racing TB and port match intake manifold, lightened flywheel weather its stock or aftermarket, stg2 clutch (all asuming your manual if your auto then forget about going fast, at least for too long) T3/To4e ballbearing turbo you decided the company of the turbo, a GREAT tune (i recomend neptune) and if thats not fast enough get a 150-175 dryshot. did i miss anything, oh and a lip kit, NO BODY KIT, i WILL be forced to kill you if you put a body kit on your car, have a nice day
    why would he swap in h23 rods and crank. there the same as the f22

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    1,001

    Default

    my mistake i guess i was thinking it was the same block, wheres your ideas for this guy
    95 accord 4 door:
    JDM F22b
    stock ported head
    ARP studs
    K&N cold air intake
    DHRacing 69mm TB
    DHRacing stock ported intake
    Mugen header
    custom test pipe
    Apexi WS2 catback
    Apexi safcII
    TIEN coilovers
    5 Zigen FN01R-C
    Kumho AST
    Forbidden short shifter
    Bride shift boot
    *NEW*92 EG hatch project*
    B16a 5spd LSD (for now)
    LS/Vtec turbo
    300-500whp with 3stg boost controller
    parts -- its a secret

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 95_acc0rd
    my mistake i guess i was thinking it was the same block, wheres your ideas for this guy
    air induction
    1)Ebay intake(toss the air filter) with a FUJITA or a AEM dry air filter.

    2)H23 or h22 upper intake manifold plenum and TB. send to maxbore.com for TB bore out and plenum port maching(taper bore if you plan to stay NA straight bore if you plan togo boost).

    3)Header, ether 4-2-1 or a 4-1 I use kamikaze 4-1, and bisimoto is coming up with a header on the leve of a SMSP header......but it will cost ya

    4)cat-cat back, make sure it matchs the header down pipe. if the header is 2.25 then it should be the same thru out. and make sure it's mandrel bent.

    5)Cam, you can go low end (delta cam) or high end (bisimoto.com). just talk to them and ask for the cam that fits you best.

    Fuel systems

    1)fuel pump, 255 lph is good(the car's almost 20 years old...it's time for a new one anyway)

    2)FPR,Fuel Pressure Regulators, it will help the eng get the fuel it need for the new mods

    Ignition system

    1)new cap & rotor" MSD is a good way togo

    2)ignition module:http://www.performancedistributors.com/honda.htm not need, but every lil bit helps

    3)Coil: if it not already external, conver it!!!
    blaster ss or blaster 2

    4)wires: msd, ngk, oem. fuck that nology bull shit!!!!

    5)plugs: NGK or denso iridium. platinums not good for cars that get pushed hard.

    6)spark box: msd 6AL or digital 6 <(works good with NOS)

    POWER ADDERS!!!!!!!!!!


    nitrous:for a stock eng 100 shot will do you good. any more plan a rebulid.

    turbo: you can do the good old DSM swap.
    or custom (garrett gt30r is a good one).

    there is ALOT more i could put down but i my wrist is starting to hurt.lol just look around, hit other site. read read read!!!!!!! then deside what YOU want to do.

    swap h23 piston and rod & use h22 piston
    just stop giving ppl advice

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    1,001

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sulimed
    swap h23 piston and rod & use h22 piston
    just stop giving ppl advice
    dont get an ebay intake theres actually technology in the making of intakes, and nology is a hell of alot better then ngk wires and oem wires are ngk.
    get the fuck off this site before you get your self hurt
    and i actually said h23 crank and rods and h22 pistons weather im right or wrong get what i said right bitch
    95 accord 4 door:
    JDM F22b
    stock ported head
    ARP studs
    K&N cold air intake
    DHRacing 69mm TB
    DHRacing stock ported intake
    Mugen header
    custom test pipe
    Apexi WS2 catback
    Apexi safcII
    TIEN coilovers
    5 Zigen FN01R-C
    Kumho AST
    Forbidden short shifter
    Bride shift boot
    *NEW*92 EG hatch project*
    B16a 5spd LSD (for now)
    LS/Vtec turbo
    300-500whp with 3stg boost controller
    parts -- its a secret

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    monroe, NY
    Posts
    286

    Default

    damnit....where the hell is Boto when ya need him? hahaha jk.....but seriously guys this is gettin rediculous. Drop the egos and shake hands.
    Turning up a system to a level that has audible distortion is more damaging to your ears than listening to an undistorted system at the same volume level. The threshold of pain is always an indicator that the sound level is too loud and may permanently damage your hearing. Please use common sense when choosing a muffler.

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