How-To Install Tanabe SS Coil-Overs ..

[TOP END MS]

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PRODUCT: SusTec Pro SS Type-II Coil-Overs (http://www.topendmotorsports.com/jp/suspension/coilovers/tanabe/sustecpro_ss/index.html)
MANUFACTURER: Tanabe (http://www.topendmotorsports.com/jp/brands/tanabe)
RIDE DROP: F: -1/4~-3in / R: 0~-3 1/4in

VEHICLE: 1996 Honda Accord LX

INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS ..

A) Pre-Assemble the Tanabe SS Coil-overs ..

When you receive your Tanabe SusTec Pro SS Type-II Coil-Overs, they will be packaged with some minor assembly required before install.

1. First thing I would do is pull out the instructions and make sure all the required parts are supplied.

2. Find front and rear shocks and lay them out. Install black rubber bump stops if they have not been pre-installed.

3. Next find the coil-over spring lower adjustable mounts (2 per shock). make sure the flat side is up and that the smaller ring is on the bottom and install on all four shocks. Now would be a good time to pre-set the ride height. Take a ruler and hold it to the top of the threaded body. Where gonna use a 1.5" drop, so locate 1.75" (b/c the coilovers are -.25" drop from stock at the top) from the top of the threads and make sure that is where the top of the spring mount sets. spin the bottom locking mount to the spring mount and tighten with the coilover tool. It is recommended by Tanabe to wrap the shown threated body with teflon tape. I then put one strip of heavy duty tape to make sure it doesnt unravel. Adjusting the height in the future is still rather simple by using a razor blade to remove the tape.
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4. Next locate the proper springs for the front and set them over the shock rod and onto its mount. Make sure the part number is right side up. Then the rear. Best bed is to use the part # on the instructions and the part number on the spring itself to locate from and rear.

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5. Next find the proper 'spring caps' and Find the front springs (by labeled part # on the springs). For the accords the rear caps have 2 round notchs on each side. Also for the rear is a rubber padding to prevent noise from the cap and the spring since their is less weight holding them together, unlike the front end.

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B) Shock absorber / coil spring assembly removal (Front) ..

1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheels.

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2. Unbolt the brake hose from the shock absorber assembly.

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3. Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm

4. Place a floor jack under the lower control arm to support it when the shock absorber assembly is removed. Remove the damper fork pinch bolt.

5. Remove the damper fork-to-lower control arm bolt and remove the fork. It may be necessary to tap the fork from the shock absorber.

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6. Support the shock absorber and coil spring assembly and remove the three upper mounting nuts. Remove the unit from the fenderwell.

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7. Remove the upper mounts of the oem assembly and place on the new Tanabe SusTec Pro SS Coil-Overs to finish their assembly.

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8. Pre-adjust your coil-over damper and height adjustments by setting the front to one notch less than max, and dropping the coilovers 1.75" in front.

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C) Tanabe SusTec Pro SS Type-II Coil-Over Installation ..

1. Guide the shock absorber assembly up into the fenderwell and insert the three upper mounting studs through the holes in the body. Once the studs protrude from the holes, install the nuts so the assembly won't fall back through, but dont tighten the nuts completely yet. The shock absorber is heavy and awkaward, so get an assistant to help you, if possible.

2. Insert the lower end of the shock absorber into the damper fork. Make sure the aligning tab on the back of the shock body enters the slot in the damper fork.

3. Connect the damper fork to the lower control arm, rightening the self-locking nut to 47lbs of torque. Now tighten the damper fork pitch bolt to 32lbs of torque.

4. Attach the brake hose to its backet and tighten the bolt securely.

5. Repeat procedure for the passenger side, then install the both wheels, lug nuts, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to 80lbs of torque..

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D) Shock absorber / Coil Spring Assembly Removal (Rear)

1. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle, place it securely on jackstands and remove the rear wheels.

2. Remove the rear seat. On Coupe models, also remove the trim panel covering the upper mount of the shock absorber.

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3. Remove the shock absorber upper mounting nuts.

4. Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt.

5. Pull the rear knuckle down and remove the shock absorber/coil spring assembly.

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F) Tune your Coil-Over Suspension

Many times this step is overlooked and if adjusted improperly can lead to worse performance than you started with.. for this reason, many ameature tuners may find better reasults with a 'pre-tuned' spring/shock combination.

1. Adjust the hieght - Ideal ride height is lowest as possible, WHILE MAINTAINING PROPER CLEARANCE FOR DAILY ROAD CONDITIONS. For a Street / Road Race tuner this means we must be able to clear somewhat bumpy/harsh roads, speedbumps and pot-holes.

The two main considerations when tuning your ride height should be shock travel and ground clearance.

For most Hondas a 2" drop is prob. a good est. for max lowering on a street vehicle. But do consider if you have an aftermarket from lip or body kit it could already bring your front end 2-3" inches closer to the ground already, so a 2" drop might bring you too low in the front for a street set-up and might look for something more of a 1.5-1.75" drop.

2. Adjust the damper - Now lets say you live up North where the roads can change from flat to bumpy conditions rather quickly. oards so you decide your going with a 2.5" drop .. and lets just say your damper adjustments are on the softest setting. If your traveling at a fast speed and come over a sudden hill is your vehicle bottoming out? What is bottoming out? Bottoming out is when the shock fully compresses and the frame of the vehicle comes in contact with the top of the shock body. The suspension system however has a 'bump stop' that rests around the shock rod and acts as a bushing / pillow between the chassis and the shock body. If you feel impact when you hit small/med. size bumps, then you need to do one of two things, A. raise the ride height to allow more travel .. or B. increase the stiffness of the shocks to require more force to compress the shock. A. obviously will keep/increase comfort, but will hurt performance .. but B. however will possibly sacrifice comfort (or many times not even), and increase performance even greater! .. so if you think youve dailed in the best drop for your conditions, then I recommend increasing damper until you no longer 'bottom out' on a regular basis. IF you hit a massive bump going somewhat fast and you bottom out .. no worries .. where not offroading and some bottoming out under extreme conditions would be considered normal...

If the damper is at its stiffest setting and you still bottom out regularly .. your only other option is to raise the ride height.

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