90 N 92 acord cpu differences?

[vic92accord]

Does neone know whut tha difference is between a 90 accord ex cpu wit manual tranny and a 92 accord lx manual tranny cpu? because i want to swap a 90 accord ex into my 92 lx but im not sure if tha cpu matters or do i have to swap cpu's? I also want to know if a engine can go bad by sittin more than 2 yrs? thanx :D

[ACCLUDE]

The ECU won't make any difference. They are both P0A ECU's and are identical.

Yes, letting a motor sit can kill it. It's one of the worst things you can do to a motor. I'd flush all old fluids out completely before installing. Also manually turn the crank a little just to loosen up any thing that has collected on moving parts. Also, change the thermostat, all filters, and maybe a few gaskets if they need it. Once it's installed, fill it up with good fluids and even stuff like fuel system cleaner and oil additives. Take it easy on it for the first few hundred or even thousand miles. As long as the motor was not heavily exposed to the elements for the past 2 years (stored outside) then it should still be alright. Pray to god that nothing started to rust internally cause that will surely be the end of that motor. Good luck, hope it starts without a problem.

[vic92accord]

well tha previous owner had it sittin for 2 yrs then he got it runnin but it didnt last for long, after a month of driving it stopped workin i mean it still turns but no start so hopefully when i swap my parts on that block it will start. i hope nuttin internal is rusted. im swappin my manifold,alt,tranny(manual),powersteering pump, and head. Im debating if i want air conditioning. Do u have ne tips on takin tha head and timin g belt off i dont want to mess up nething like tha timing n stuff. Hey thanx alot again for tha usefull info. :)

[ACCLUDE]

Well, mark the cam gear and the head with something like a pastell crayon (not permanent but won't rub off easy either). Mark a line on the gear and one on the head to where the lines match up before you even touched anything. Might want to do the same for the distributor as well. Once it's marked, you're good to go and that will save you some time and confusion.

[vic92accord]

do i need to completly disassemble tha whole head or do i just take a few bolts off and it comes off? o and tha cam pulley is mark from previous swaping does that matter? thanx

[ACCLUDE]

As long as the previous cam marks are still in line and they were set right when they were marked, then those are fine.

To take the head off, take off the exhaust manifold, the intake manifold and intake which will require you to unplug all of the sensor/fuel injector/device hoses and plugs attatched to any of those devices. I suggest only unplugging the fuel injector wires instead of pulling the injectors out completely cause then you need to buy new seals. Only pull the injectors out if you are changing those as well or they have bad seals. Once those are out of the way, you need to take the timing belt cover off to remove it from the cam gear and that will require you to loosen the pulley belts and move a few other items out of the way. You need access to the timing belt tensioner so you can loosen the timing belt. Mark any other gears that are not already marked before loosening and removing the timing belt. Also disconnect the top radiator hose and the coolant temp sensor wires from the head. Once that's all out of the way, remove the valve cover. There are 10 bolts that hold the head to the block. They need to be removed and installed in a certain order and when re-installed need to be tightened to 74 ft/lbs. Use a torque wrench for that. Also pay attention to the bolt length for each location and label them cause they're different lengths. The instructions and sequence will be listed below. Any bolts that are exposed to coolant passages need to be coated with sealant before installation. Before putting on the new head, you need to have the warpage measured. If it is between .05mm - .20mm then have it resurfaced before installation. If it's less than .05mm, you're good to go. If it's more than .20mm then toss that head in the trash and go get another one. Needless to say you want to use a new head gasket and might as well change the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, valve cover gasket and maybe new seals inside the head...depends on if they're needed and if you feel like buying those too. I recommend it though. No need to mess with the cam or cam journals or anything like that unless you planned to have those changed as well. Installation is the reverse of dis-assembly only torque all necessary bolts, be a little more cautious about gasket alignment and make sure everything sits and seals right. A little silicone sealant on the headgasket around coolant passages is also a good idea. Don't over-do it tho. A valve adjustment may be a good idea too. Now for the head bolt sequence and specs. Sorry for the crappy diagram...


|--------------------------------|
|.... 8......6.......2.......4.......10...|
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| <--cam
|.....9......3.......1.......5........7....|
|--------------------------------|
front of car
|
\/

Tighteneing the headbolts is done in three stages. Tighten all ten headbolts in the order above to Stage 1's specs before moving on to Stage 2 and so on. Keep an eye on the headgasket the whole time and make sure it seats properly.
Stage 1 - 29 ft/lbs.
Stage 2 - 52 ft/lbs.
Stage 3 - 74 ft/lbs. (final)

Even once everything is back together and running doesn't mean that you're done. Keep a close eye on everything for the next 3,000 miles and when you do your next oil change, pull the valve cover back off and check the head bolt torque specs again. Chances are they will be slightly off. Adjust them back to 74 ft/lbs. in the tightening order above. That way you help ensure that you're not gonna blow the head gasket anytime soon.

Feel free to ask any questions you may have. Good luck, head changes are fairly indepth and definitely time consuming. I hope it works out for ya.

[ACCLUDE]

You mentioned that the previous owner had it sitting for two years, installed it and got it running, but it only lasted a little while. So just wondering....do you know what's wrong with it or why it stopped running? The reason I'm asking is it might not be worth the work you're about to do. Id' try to find out more details about what's wrong with it before dumping this time and money into it. It may be something simple and strupid or it may be something major that cost more to repair than a new motor itself. I'd look into that a little more.

[vic92accord]

i dont know whuts wrong wit it but it has spark i was thinkin maybe it could be something wit tha fuel. well i havent spent money yet but i did spend time and right now i cant take tha freakin bolts off tha head, they r tight ass hell i tried using torque wrench, regular socket wrench, and air compressor and still nuttin. Is there another special tool i could use? I dont want to strip tha bolts and be screwed. o and one more question. Since Im taking my serviced lx head and puttin it on tha ex block am i gonna loose compression?