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View Full Version : what do i need to do to drop my 92 accord sedan lx


acc92sleeper
12-09-2004, 07:56 PM
just looking for some tips on putting springs or coilovers on my accord, tools, tips, do's and dont's, any info mill be greatly needed!

bshshondaman06
12-10-2004, 07:21 PM
you get what you pay for.




it depends what kind of driving you going to do.. are you dropping for look or for handling...
if its just for daily driving id go with eibach springs. if you want some good racing stuff go to tein. if you want a good ride you can go to the kyb gr2. they are non-adjustable but have a three way adjuster on the inside(it adjusts itself) but if you want alittle better go for the kyb agx. they are fully adjustable and not too much... id go with nuespeed springs or eibach springs for the kyb sturts
again if you want performance go tein. those are good but tein offers so much. you just have to fork out some cash

Carreragt2e
01-17-2005, 02:42 PM
Befor you do anything, figure out what you want to do with the car, basic drop, for competition? do you want springs or coilovers? coil overs is a general term that people use for a spring and movable perch that comes with a complete set matched with shocks (Ex Tein SS, tein Basic, Apexi, JIC) Those are the easiest to install but most expensive, but in the long run are better, give you more tuning options and are very reliable. If your on a budjet, I suggest TEIN basic , they start at 650, and shops will install them for 150-200. If you live in Milwaukee/madisn WI and want to do this in the spring/summer time, I will install them for a case of Corona and some chicken strips and ranch. emmmm and the cost of renting an aircompressor because I do not have one yet, unless I can borrow my friends.
eibach makes good lowering springs, tein S tech are ok, but I didnt like them. I use Tein SS with the tein pillow upper mounts.

Tools needed
allen wrenches, standard and metric because parts vary
Impact gun, good one, dont cheap out on this. I bought a 50$ one that has like 100ft/lbs of torque and it barely takes off wheels. I thought it was good. I bought one from matco onsale that has up to 600ft lbs and is adjustable too. takes lug nuts off in a second.
Spring compressor. Rears you dont need, fronts you do.
Various socket sizes, metric
breaker bar
hammer/mallet. Dont hit any thing with threads with a hammar because you will bend threads and make head aches for your self.
Box wrenches. dont use normal ones, you will strip bolts down
money for broken bolts because honda bolts like to break
time, if this is your first time it will take you alittle while because you wont really know what your doing for sure
pb blaster, spray all the bolt areas with this befor you do anything, make this the first thing you do. it will get rid of rust, or at least help lubricate and kill rust. you can buy this at an auto part store
Car jack,
at least 1 jack stand, 2-4 makes things best.
measureing tape, measure your ride height befor and after, test drive the car, then remeasure. a must if you have coilovers, you will need to play around with settings because the cars weight is not distributed perfect.

I like to use air tools mostly. A good impact gun with a high torque setting or a good breaker bar will be needed because more than likely the bolts on your suspension are pretty rusted on. Honda bolts like to break , be ready to go to the dealer for replacement bolts, but do your best not to break bolt heads off.
First, if you use the breaker bar, try using a hammer on it to give it sudden bursts of force. Dont do any sort of progressive type of force like sitting on it. You will just break the bolt head off.
If you have a torche of somekind that will help too, heat the bolts,
If your using an impact and it isnt budging, try using both directions, trying to spin the bolt on and off , that will loosen it too.

befor I go on, just remeber that when you are done and replace everything, if your using an impact, dont over tighten or you will bust the bolt. I did that on my rears.
in the rears when you take them off, those bolts can be a bitch , somtimes break and you may need to torch some old rubber bushings out, saws to cut stuff, cut off wheel to slice and dice. C clamp to put new ones in if you ruined the old ones.

in the front after you have the wheels off , for each shock/spring assembly there are three nuts in the engine bay, so pop your hood, and then two below. You may need to drop down the upper control arm? (did I name that right?) it is connected in the engine bay, two large bolts, .
But first, take off the lower two bolts.
Start with the lowest one on the bottom of the knuckle assembly
if you reusing those shocks (you might as well replace them because more than likely your stuffs old, and if your lowereing you will probally blow those out, so get some good ones for replacements) . you can get those out wiht out taking them off.
Also, take the brake line bolts out, there are 2 attached to the spring assembly, remeber the way they were installed so that you replace them the exact way they were so you dont snag anything driving later on.
Next udo the top 3 bolts, I think they are 14mm
The spring assembly will drop down next, you will have to to some struggling to get those out but once they are out...
IF you are installing lowering springs, use a spring compressor but if not you probally will not have one with you,
you will need to secure the center shaft of the shock. DO NOT Scratch the shiney chrome bling bling part. do this and you will blow your shock.
remember the order of the nuts and bolts. Remeber the direction of the washers, take a picture if you have to because this iwll be improtant for the future. If installed wrong you could have parts flying off. Wouldnt that impress your girlfriend.

next use an impact gun and buss that bolt off, sometimes you wont need to secure that center shaft, if thats the case keep buzzing that off, have your feet on the upper mount so it dosnt fly and hit you in the nuts, I suggest do this sitting down, the shock assembly will fly a good 10 plus feet. I shoot it into an old tire. REMEmBER to keep your feet on the top mount,
next install your new stuff, replace everything the way you got it out
reinstall your shock, do this same procedure for the other side.
The rears are easy, but a pain to get in and out. There are two bolts up top, 1 on the bottom. Remove the bottom one first. USe an impact gun to take this off , more than likely it will break if you do not.
after you have the lower bolt out, go into the trunk , pull down your rear seat, unbolt the top 4 bolts(2 for each) for this seat support peice. Un bolt the rear shock top mount bolts.
the assembly will drop down, pull it out. IT will require some struggling , kicking, swearing but it will come out.
take those apart same way as the front, put them back, dont forget to remember the order of everything.,

remember, the TOP most washer always cups upwards!!! this is important, for somereason or another.

but when your done reinstalling everything, or even befor you rebolt things, I suggest putting antiseize on every bolt to make enxt time easier to replace. Make sure to use a torque wrench on all nuts to ensure they are tightend evenly and correctly. You dont have to, you can just buzz them on, but it gives you a safer state of mind.

Put your wheels back on, get her off jack stands, torque your wheels, take her for a test drive.
clean up your mess

if this is too much, I suggest paying someone to do it for you.
-Eric

acc92sleeper
01-17-2005, 05:50 PM
are there any springs to stay away from, my drop will be for the overall look, but i do drive alot everyday so i would like it to handle good too. i will also be puttting on front and rear strut bars and the rear lower tie bar i think it is

acc92sleeper
02-06-2005, 03:57 PM
i went with a set of eibach ground control coilovers, they are the best of the affordable coilovers out there i think. i want to get the kyb agx struts so i can adjust my ride, (got a baby girl now). what will i have to do in the terms of a camber kit or adjustable joints, arms, or something, so that my arms wont hit my fenderwalls

RidnLow
05-26-2005, 08:33 AM
my opinion is i would go with springs its a much better ride than coilovers. coilovers ride real ruff.

birdman
05-26-2005, 11:28 AM
yeah, those hi-low coilovers don't ride as good as regular lowering springs. The whole coil-over assembly types are good tho'. I plan on finding one for cheap on ebay or something for my next car.

birdman
05-26-2005, 11:34 AM
i went with a set of eibach ground control coilovers, they are the best of the affordable coilovers out there i think. i want to get the kyb agx struts so i can adjust my ride, (got a baby girl now). what will i have to do in the terms of a camber kit or adjustable joints, arms, or something, so that my arms wont hit my fenderwalls

I heard of people shaving them or something.

asianaccord
05-26-2005, 08:38 PM
i got some Teins and i only dropped like an inch. maby because i didn't cut the bump stop like they said. i don't have the back ones on yet because i can't get the nut on the fork loose. i broke a socket and an extention bar(craftsman) just tring to loosen it. i'm going to take it to the shop to crack the bolts then i could do it myself.