F20a Dohc

[GON4LO]

I am new to this forum and I am in need of some help. I bought my Accord from a guy not running. He has tried to do a motor swap for a dohc motor and could never get it to fire. If anyone has any pointers on this motor or can put me in the right direction I would be very greatful.

The motor is the f20a DOHC and is supposedly a direct swap into the 4th Gen accord. It is very similar to the 2.3 out of the Prelude and is supposed to be able to swap parts. The motor is a 2.0 and seems to not be getting any fire.

I also noticed that a sensor on the back cam has no plug to go to it. As well as one behind the fuel rail.

thanks for any help you can give

[midnite racer x]

we'll need pix, but the engine u just described to me ran me around 3 different loops. Ok the f20a is a jdm sohc engine, f20b is a dohc vtec engine from the euro-r accord, and the f22b is a sohc engine from japan also...and is the most compatible with the h23 i believe...i'll do some research really quick but i think u should check that engine code one more time and make sure its clearly visible.

Ok nevermind i found it, didn't know it existed. 150 hp i believe. Anyways give us the characteristics of the engine if it the crankturns or if it even fires at all. Weird sounds u hear and such would be great. Also a list of what u have checked already i.e. the battery, distributor, ecu plugged in

[midnite racer x]

oh and....WELCOME TO THE BOARD!!! :p

[vasponger]

hmm never heard of a f20a, just the f2ob hmmm missing wiring could be the problem dont know how to go about fixing that though

[GON4LO]

I have tried all i know to get it to fire. I have tried changing distributers,coils,and ignition ground points. And now I have sent the distributer back to Nippon motors who i was told the motor was from.

The motor will turn over normally. No strange sounds or anything like that. Just no fire to complete the process.

I also had the ecu tested to see if it was good. And checked out all good.

Does anyone know where i can get the wiring diagram for this p.o.s. This project is really pissing me off. And I am at a total loss.

[GON4LO]

I am gonna go take some pics of everything today. I am not sure how to post them to this site. So if you think you can help hit my email and I will send them to ya.

[92BLACKEX]

It could be a fuel problem. Before cranking it, spray some fuel into the engine through the throttle body by using a turkey bayster or a spray bottle. And then have someone crank it for you while you spray more in there to see if it caches, cuz it sounds like you got a spark, and if your not hearing any weird noises there's probly nothing wrong with the engine getting air, easy exaust flow, compression, ect. It might the injectors or the fuel rail isn't hooked up, fuel pump aint pumping, fuel filter cloged, thats my guess, try that out. Oh yea and if that wont work, you could try checking the oil, there might be a to high of a viscocity level (10W, 15W) it should be 5W, or maby there might not be any! but that really doesn't sound like the problem, and if it was the oil, you would here how bad it would sound.

[GON4LO]

There is definately no spark at the plug. And I know it is something to do with the ignition system or wiring.

[92BLACKEX]

Try taking one of the wires off and just leave one hanging right above the valve cover, if your getting a spark you should be able to see,(when your cranking it) the other end of the plug boot has to hit a ground to see the spark, if you don't see anything then you know for sure, and maby that wire may cause if from not haveing a spark.

[midnite racer x]

heres the pix u wanted me to post GONLO

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/pbd6b9af14f0b23aeee55369299197a95/f9f47709.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/pb8d8318af5f707b8914a5f12d222f3a2/f9f4770d.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/pbb53c4c8e82fe3149b983bc980078804/f9f47710.jpg

[ACCLUDE]

You've changed and checked just about every part of the ignition system, but what about the TDC/CYP/CKP and tach wires? Are they correctly connected? Also, have you tested for voltage at the coil? If you are getting fuel, you should be able to smell it in the exhaust after a few cranks.

[GON4LO]

I took each plug out and tried each one. That was the first thing I did when it didn't catch the first time or even try to turn over. I tried all the stuff you are supposed to and still nothing. :mad: I have about had it with this thing.

[ACCLUDE]

If you are never able to get the car to fire and want to get rid of it, I might be able to pick it up off you, but I'll see. I'd rather you get the car running and enjoy it though.

There's still a few more things you can try, but you need to narrow it down a little.

First, make sure the issue is with spark and not with fuel. As I said, you should be able to smell the unburned gas in the exhaust after a few cranks if you are getting fuel. No need to dump gas in the manifold or anything like that...just smell for it. Also listen for the "psssst" sound that the fuel pressure regulator makes when you first put the key in and turn it one click (not starting, just so that the dash lights come on). If you hear the 'Pssst" then chances are it is getting fuel fine, and if you can smell it in the exhaust, then you are definitely getting gas.

If you are sure that it is getting fuel, then test for voltage and resistance at the coil. Voltage should read about 12.5-14 volts and resistance should read about 14,000-22,000 ohms. Test that and report back what your tests proved. We'll take it from there.

[GON4LO]

Well I tried all that. It is getting fuel, and I will definately be able to test the new distributer in the morning. The old one was good but not enuff wires. They swapped me distributers and this one is for my motor.

Will let you know more in the next few days.

[GON4LO]

well put the new disributer in and hooked it all up and still nothing at the plug. And I know I am getting fuel for sure because it started to leak at the banjo nut and had to be replaced.

Sure would be nice to be able to look at the setup in someones car or at least a wire diagram.

[ACCLUDE]

Read the Distributor thread cause that has most of the wiring stuff answered already plus all the distributor testing procedures. If you tested everything in this thread and it all checked out fine, then you have a problem elsewhere.

http://www.topendmotorsports.com/members/showthread.php?p=4871#post4871

I can help you figure it out without a problem. Can you take pictures of the distributor plugs and post them up here? Also, post your EXACT RESULTS of what each test reveals. You keep saying that you've tested everything, but I need to know the exact test you performed and the exact results. The more detail the better.

[imcheap]

try buying or returning the ignition module... i had to return 3 ignition module before getting one that worked... and also... try checking the main relay...under the dash...

[GON4LO]

try buying or returning the ignition module... i had to return 3 ignition module before getting one that worked... and also... try checking the main relay...under the dash...


Where is this main relay? And what does it look like?

[ACCLUDE]

He's talking about the PGM-FI main relay and that really only controls the fuel. If you know for a fact that you're getting fuel then there's no need to check it.
It's on the drivers side of the car and it's behind the dash next to the front a-pillar. You need to take the dash off to get to it. You'll hear it click when you turn the keys to the accessory position (dash lights come on).

Again, post up each test you did and the exact results and then I can tell you what to test next. I don't see it getting figured out any quicker way cause it's nothing but guesses from everyone at this point. To figure it out, you need to systematically narrow it down. The sooner you post those tests/results, the sooner your car will be running!

[GON4LO]

Well it has spark. It was the main relay assembly. Now for the new problem.... No fuel to the injectors. It will fire up and run if you spray starter fluid in the air intake. And it will start if you leave the key on for a bit, but when it fires it run hella ruff.

Any ideas?????

[midnite racer x]

i'd say pull the fuel injectors out and check how clogged they are...all of the ignition key turning may have fouled the injectors or something. Just look what pat posted about the fuel pressure and stuff above. I bet you'll find your answer up there

[imcheap]

sorry took so long to reply... been working lots of over time...

so it was the main relay?

but now new problem? just try and throw in some fuel injector cleaner and let it clean the lines... or change everything out...

[Accorduke]

how long have you left you car running ''ruff''? becouse my car set with a dead battery for almost 2 months and when i started it it ran ruff for like 30 min. I let it sit becouse i had now wheels on at that time was in prosses of getting new ones cause my old ones got stolen

[Accorduke]

i think that the 90 through 93 accords look really cool and i think your car has potentual and one day it will be smokin :)

[danielngho]

I would like to swap an engine f22a4 from a honda accord, to a h22a4/5/6, can that be posible??? let me know...

[Asiandude03]

Hell yea its possible. There is a lot of people on this site that knows about swaping in a H22. Plus it is almost a direct drop.