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View Full Version : How to: Roskoracing's Euro R Intake Manifold

nusdogg
09-06-2011, 01:37 AM
I figured since I don't see any DIY for the H22 Euro R IM and decided that I'll go ahead and do one. This DIY will also give those of you who are unsure an idea how things will look like and what will be needed and what not to make this installation a breeze.

Tools Needed:
-3/8 Ratchet
-Sockets; 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
-10mm & 12mm combination wrench
-3/8 extensions
-Pry Bar
-Philips & Flat Head screwdrivers
-Razor Blade or Gasket Scraper
-16 gauge wires
-Wire Cutter & Stripper tool
-5/16 or 8mm & at least 4 foot long coolant hoses(x2)
-Allen Wrenches
-Hot Soapy Water
-Coolant

Before you start, make sure the engine is cold & remove the fuel filler cap to release the tank pressure:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07145-1.jpg

I start out by removing the throttle cable and move it out of the way:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07150.jpg

Remove your intake assembly out of the way; mine's a SRI so it takes me couple sec to get it out:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07152-1.jpg

Then, I went and unbolt the IACV. Unbolt the two 12mm bolts:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07153.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07154.jpg

Then I disconnected both the MAP and TP sensors off the TB:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07156.jpg

Remove the brake booster hose off the IM:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07157.jpg

Once thats done, I went ahead and unbolt the five plenum bolts. It's either 10 or 12mm bolts:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07158.jpg

Lift the upper plenum off and out of the way:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07159.jpg

It's time to unbolt the three fuel rail bolts. 10mm:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07160.jpg

Once that's done, I lifted the injectors and rail off as one piece:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07162.jpg

Then it's time to unbolt the IM 12mm bolts. Four up top and six on the bottom and unbolt the 12mm bolt off the IM Support Brace underneath then use the pry bar to lightly pry the IM off:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07165.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07167.jpg

It should look like this once the IM is out, and don't forget to plug up the intake ports:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07168.jpg

This is where the hot/warm soapy water comes in to soak up the old gasket. Some uses gasket remover stuff whichever works for you but I did my way for free. It takes alot of time and patience to get all the old gasket off and this takes the longest:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07169.jpg

Once the mating surface is clean, install your new intake mani gasket. I used Rosko's Thermal IM gasket that came with the package:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07170-2.jpg

Here is a side by side shot of the Stock VS Euro R IM:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07175.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07176.jpg

Now, time to prep the IACV parts. Here I used the red high temp RTV sealant for gasket between the IM & IACV adapter plate so it doesn't have any vacuum leak:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07177.jpg

I went ahead and installed the IACV adapter plate and IACV onto the Euro R IM:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07180-1.jpg

Next....
nusdogg
09-06-2011, 01:39 AM
I went ahead and transfered my TB over to the new IM. Now is also the time to clean, lube, and install the injector o-rings onto your new IM:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07178.jpg

Be sure to remove the towels you stucked inside the intake ports before you installed the IM. I made the mistake of not doing so, and realized that I didn't after I bolted the new IM on. It sucks! Good thing I caught myself though. Get your IM in and against the head:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07181.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07182.jpg

Go ahead and install those 10 12mm bolts. Start from the center out when tightening and once that is all done, you're ready to re-install your injectors and fuel rail assembly but this time you'll need to use the allen wrenches to tighten down the rail cause of Rosko's fancy Allen Screws:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07187.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07188.jpg

Here, I didn't have an FITV due to the Skunk2 68mm TB I'm using, so I just route the hoses straight their appropriate spout. Use the two 5/16 coolant hoses and route the hoses from the IACV spout to their appropriate coolant spout on the engine side as shown in the diagram. IACV spout #1 goes to #1 spout on the t-stat housing while #2 of the IACV goes to#2 on the t-stat housing. Just hose them accordingly as shown:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/coolanthoses.jpg

Plug in the IACV connector. I found out that your IACV will be rubbing/touching the heater core spout/hose. I didn't do anything about cause I don't want to be replacing the heater core:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07197-1.jpg

Then tighten down your engine harness ground which would be for the ECU. Make sure it's tight or it won't create spark:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07191.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07194.jpg

Now onto the throttle cable. If you're still running the 5th Gen Accord throttle cable, it will be tooooo long, and you won't be able to drive the car. This is what I did for temporary til I get my 4th Gen Prelude throttle cable. It'll work to be DD/Cruise, but if you WOT the bracket will move and it'll create lots of free play on your gas pedal:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07203.jpg

Once that is done, install your intake assembly, connect the MAP & TP sensors(don't get them mixed up or it'll run like sh*t). If your IACV & IAT sensor connectors won't reach their sensors, you'll need to extend them. Add & bleed your coolant system since there's air inside the system. You should be ready to roll out! Make sure to do key cycle to charge up your fuel lines and make sure there's no fuel leak before starting up the engine:

Before:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07145-1.jpg

After:

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07201.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm297/nus_dogg/DSC07199.jpg

Enjoy your new Euro R IM!

Here's the dyno graph tuning the Euro R & 450cc Injectors. Red(68mm Euro R IM) VS Blue(69mm Stock IM w/ Blacktrax IAB spacer):

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c362/nusdogg/Nusb4after.jpg
AccordEx
09-07-2011, 06:36 PM
awesome DIY, too bad this forum is dead